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HOW TO CREATE A CUSTOM WIG

If you want to learn how to create a custom wig for any occasion, this article is just for you. I will give an in-depth step by step tutorial on how to create a customized wig, to include a full lace wig with extensions and a 360 frontal lace wig, that you can rock anywhere at any time. You will also learn how to properly secure your wig, which means NO MORE HEADACHES! Your custom wig will look so natural, that people will start asking “how you get your hair to grow so fast!”

STEP 1: HEAD MEASUREMENTS

The first step in creating a custom wig is to measure the head circumference of the individual in which the wig will be placed on. Creating a proper/secure fitting wig is an important step in the wig making process.

Supplies:

  • Spandex cap
  • White pencil
  • Measuring tape
  1. To get the proper measurements, make sure the individual’s hair is styled in the way they will wear it under the wig. After the individual’s real hair is styled, place a spandex cap on the head, smoothing out any buckling.
  2. Next, wrap measuring tape around the perimeter of the individuals head, then record the measurement.
  3. Note: that your leave out area (edges or hair left out to make a u-part wig) will not be a part of the measurement. For a u-part wig, you will measure the points up to where your leave out will be.

  4. Your second measurement will be from the forehead to the nape of the head. You will take your measuring tape from the hairline straight back to the neck, then record the measurement.
  5. Your third measurement will be from the top of your right ear, over the crown of your head, to the top of the left ear. Once you receive that measurement, record it.

You have now completed the first step in creating a custom wig. From this point on, poor fitting wigs is a thing of the past.

STEP 2: BLEACH YOUR KNOTS

The next step in creating a custom wig is to bleach the knots on the frontal as you want the frontal to look as realistic and natural as possible.

Supplies

  • BW2 bleach
  • 20 developer
  • Applicator brush
  • Bowl
  • Towel
  • Shampoo and conditioner
  1. Mix the bleach and developer together in a bowl until the formula gets thick, resembling a cake frosting consistency. You do not want the product to be runny because you are bleaching the knots only and not the hair.
  2. Comb the hair to remove any tangles in the frontal.
  3. Place the frontal, lace faced up, on a cloth to catch any drippings from applying the bleaching product. Using a dabbing motion, lightly apply the bleaching product on the lace.
  4. Bleach the entire lace ensuring that it’s all one even color. Allow the product to sit for approximately 30-40 minutes.
  5. Note: Keep an eye on the lace to make sure it’s bleached to the desired color.

  6. Once the lace has bleached to the desired color, rinse the product out of the frontal, condition it, shampoo it, then condition the frontal again. We condition the air twice because bleach is harsh on the hair, and we want to restore as much moisture back into the hair as possible.
  7. After conditioning the frontal the second time, you can either blow-dry the frontal or let it air dry, then style as desired.

STEP 3: CREATE A CUSTOM WIG

Now that you have measured the head for the wig and bleached the hair, it’s time to create a custom wig. Below are three different style of wigs you can create, so let’s get started.

HOW TO MAKE A FULL WIG WITH EXTENSIONS

For the first custom wig, we will create a full wig with hair extensions.

Supplies

  • Hot glue gun
  • Glue sticks
  • Three bundles of hair
  • Styrofoam head
  • Plastic shopping bag
  1. To start, you will first wrap a plastic bag around a Styrofoam head and place the spandex cap on top of the plastic bag inside out. Glue some hair extensions around the perimeter of the spandex cap.
  2. Flip the spandex cap back over and glue the hair extensions in a circular motion. Once you reach the crown of the Styrofoam head, the space will get smaller. Continue applying hair extensions in a circular pattern to the center area, and as the space gets smaller, cut the extensions smaller.
  3. Note: Make sure wefts are pointing inward toward the center of the wig. To get a fuller look, you can go back through and add more hair.

  4. If you see any white glue just use regular hair glue to cover it or if it gets on any of the hair extensions gently pull it out of them.
  5. Pull the bag off the Styrofoam head and then peel it from the inside of the wig.
  6. If you have not already, shampoo and condition the hair. Blow-dry the hair or let it air dry and style as desired.

HOW TO CREATE A 360-FRONTAL WIG

For the second custom wig, we will create a 360-frontal wig. A 360-frontal wig allows you to wear ponytails, updos, and buns.

Supplies

  • Styrofoam head
  • Spandex cap
  • T pins
  • Clips
  • Scissors
  • Comb
  • Needle
  • Thread
  • (3) 20” bundles
  • 360 frontal
  1. If you have not already, bleach and wash the frontal. Refer to Step 2 above.
  2. After the frontal is dry, section the frontal and clip the hair out of the way.
  3. Pin the frontal to the Styrofoam head and adjust it to ensure proper fit, cutting off excess lace.
  4. Sew frontal down.
  5. Sew in single wefts, using the fold-over sew in method, starting at the back of the head.
  6. Note: To double up your wefts, which is suggested for the center of the head only, pin down the first weft, grab the second weft, then sew them together through the weft and spandex cap. As you get closer to the frontal, anchor the stitches onto the lace for a smoother unit.

  7. To secure your hair extensions, knot the extensions twice at the end.

HOW TO MAKE A WIG WITH A FRONTAL AND EXTENSIONS

For the last custom wig, we will create a wig with a frontal and hair extensions.

Supplies

  • Wig combs
  • Nylon Sewing thread
  • Frontal (18”-20”)
  • Styrofoam Head
  • Bundles (20”/22”/24”)
  • Spandex Cap
  1. If you have not already, bleach and wash the frontal. Refer to Step 2 above.
  2. After placing a spandex cap on the Styrofoam head, pin the lace frontal in place next. Make sure the front of the frontal is flush with the edge of the spandex cap.
  3. Note: The baby hairs should be in front of the cap.

  4. Once pinned correctly, tie hair up and out the way. Leave some lace out on the sides by each ear to sew in frontal. This helps to secure the frontal without damaging it.
  5. Stitch the corner of the frontal and continue sewing using the loop and pull method, sewing away from you. Sew both sides down, assuring your stitches are close together to prevent buckling.
  6. Next you will pull the spandex cap down in the back to remove any buckling and continue sewing. As you are sewing, your thread should follow your needle.
  7. Note: Keep stitches close and tight, stitching away from you.

  8. After entirely sewing your frontal down, begin sewing your hair extensions in the back. Make a knot at the end of the weft and then take your needle and thread through the weft. Take the needle and thread through the cap and make a knot.
  9. Now start sewing in your hair extensions by taking the thread around the weft and through the spandex cap.
  10. Note: Do not take the needle through the weft, but around the weft and through the cap.

  11. As you get to the lace of the frontal, take the needle and thread through the lace, make a knot, and continue sewing in your hair extensions, going around the weft and through the cap.
  12. Note: Your corners are your anchors. If you run out of thread while you are sewing in your hair extensions, knot it and cut off the excess.

  13. Go ahead and knot your thread and sew through the weft and the cap with your first stitch and knot it. Then take it around the weft and through the cap and knot it. Creating the knots anchors the weft again as well as the thread to provide a solid foundation for the hair extensions. After your first stitch, however, you can continue with your regular stitch.
  14. As you get to the top of your head and back crown area, space your wefts out to reduce bulkiness in the top. Once you get to the top, you are going to sew your weft and frontal together.
  15. Note: You can either cut out the extra part of the spandex cap (and install a strap in the back of the wig) or leave it in.

  16. Add a strap, a black elastic band, and sew one end of the strap behind the ear tabs.

And just like that, you have created your own custom wig. Congratulations! Wasn’t that bad was it? Now make sure when you share your wig on Instagram, you tag us @unitcitywigs!